JR News

VIBE kits are usually in stock. The price in the online store is higher than what we actually charge. Either call or email for a quote. Parts are now available. This is one of the finest kits on the market.

The new aluminum tail rotor gear boxes are in. The part number is MMTRGB. $65. It's a direct replacement for the plastic gearbox.

The JR Vibe was at IRCHA. It is basically a Vigor CS with all the problems fixed. It's a little lighter and has a much improved t/r control system. The head is much better. We have no official word on a release date, but expect to see them some time in May or June.

Vigor CS kits are sold out.

For some reason I removed the link to my CS page. It's still here.

We've got some time on our Venture and it looks very good. It's very stable in it's "out of the box" configuration. Here's a picture...no tricks.

Nathan looks back to see what's going on...while in a 6 inch inverted hover.

Here's a review of the model by Jeff Ashe. Jeff has been flying helicopters for about 15 years and knows his stuff. Click here to see the review. I hope to add some pictures soon.

JR Venture

This is a very well thought out model. A few things that were different and a pleasant surprise.

Steel one pc. t/r hub
Includes heavy duty servo arms
Two complete flybar setups...beginner and 3D
Extremely stiff frames
The fuel tank is ready to fill (ARF)
All metal balls ... except one. The t/r pitch slider has a plastic ball.
Very stiff tail blades ... 88mm plastic
Fantastic horizontal fin mount ... will accept carbon fins
Pretty nice looking canopy ... bleach bottle
The links are made up (ARF)
Bearings everywhere they need to be

Voyager 50s are no longer available

We have a full line of JR parts, including Ergo 30/46/60, Vigor Belt drive and  Vigor CS parts.
Click here to go to the JR Parts in the store and take a look.

I started flying the Ergo in 1995. Nathan and I both fly the Vigor CS, mine with a YS80 and Nathan's with an OS 91.
We meet with Team JR pilots at just about every funfly we attend. We learn from this.

Does your Ergo keep breaking the clutch bolts?
Just file the bottom of the holes on the fan hub so the clutch can sit squarely on the hub. Problem fixed.

Have you had any trouble with your Ergo's seesaw bearings coming loose or not being smooth?
Clean the holes with acetone. Put a little GREEN Loctite on the end of the bolt. Tighten it down. Put a straight allen driver in the bolt head and tap it with a hammer. Tighten it again. Now it should be smooth and it won't back out.

Have you had a flybar break? Read the whole story...there's more.
I think Dave Storey came up with this fix in order to get more flybar travel. Turns out that it also fixes the problem with flybars breaking...most of the time, but not completely.  Look at what stops the flybar from pivoting more in the center hub. Cut it away however you can. Mine was done on the bench at a funfly by Scott Cathey. He used an Xacto knife with a #11 blade! He just cut the aluminum away until the flybar came to within an inch of the canopy. Be sure to remove material from both sides, top and bottom equally. You might be surprised how easily the knife cuts the aluminum. Just don't get in a hurry. I like the knife method because you don't get grinding dust spread out all over the head.

It turns out that Dave is still breaking flybars. The next thing is to try a longer flybar...around 480mm. The mod mentioned above might not have eliminated Dave's problems, but it definitely cut the frequency down.

Once you have the flybar moving more, you'll notice one of the links hit on the yoke at the bolt hole. The bolt head is surrounded by plastic at this point. Cut a little of the plastic away at the point of contact.