Getting Started with a T-Rex 450

Hi, and welcome to  the world of R/C Helicopters. You are here for accurate information and that's just what you'll get.

When you shop in my online store, you have a choice of two T-Rex 450 kits; the 450SA or the 450SEV2. There are quite a few differences that you should be aware of. I'll talk about them and give you my thoughts. No matter which one you choose, you're going to have big fun.

For those who are considering buying a T-Rex 450, this section will help with the purchase. I'll list all of the items you'll need to buy in order to get your model up in the air successfully. 

In addition to the kit you will need:

Radio

There is really only one way to go here... spread spectrum (2.4 Ghz). These radios have taken over and for good reason. In the "old" days (last year), whenever you flew, you had to worry about someone else turning on a radio that was on the same frequency as yours. If that happened, it was very likely you were going to crash. With spread spectrum, that worry disappeared.  There are a couple ways to go here.

• Spektrum DX-7   This is the one I recommend because it is a good radio and worth the money. Period. Get the one with an AR7000 receiver.

• Futaba 7ch 2.4 ghz. Futaba's FASST system is rock solid.

• Airtronics RDS 8000  This is a radio capable of taking you well beyond the beginner stage. 2.4 ghz and less than $200!  Transmitter and receiver only.

• JR9303SS  This is one of the best radios available on 2.4 ghz

• Futaba 12FG  12 channels Spread Spectrum

• Convert your current radio to Spread Spectrum with a module/receiver set. Look in the Radio Equipment/2.4Ghz section of the online store.

Servos

You need pretty good servos if you want the model to fly well. On my first 450 I went really cheap. That was a mistake. The model just doesn't fly good with cheapo servos. Stay away from them. The servos that control the swashplate need to be identical. The one that takes care of the tail rotor needs to be fast.

• Swashplate Servos

  • HiTec 65MG - In my opinion these servos are the best value by far. The performance is great, they are cheap and the gears don't normally strip.

  • JR 285

• Tail Rotor Servo - Some gyros come with a servo. If yours does, just use that servo.

  • Futaba 9650 or 9257 - These are probably the best choice.

  • JR 3800G

  • Futaba 3154  I've been using one of these for a little over a year now with no trouble. It's very small and very light.

Gyro

• Futaba 401 - this is the most popular gyro. It works good.

• Logictech 2100 - Excellent gyro. Be sure to adjust your tail rotor control rod so your model hovers in "Normal" mode without any constant rudder input.

• JR500T - This and the 3800G make a good pair.

Tools

• Allen Wrenches - You will need a bare minimum of 2. Size 1.5mm and 2.0mm. - Get the hardened ones; they're worth the money.

• Phillips Screwdrivers - A #0 and #1 are all you need. I really like the WIHA brand with the Red tip on the handle. They fit good and they're comfortable to use.

• Get some of our pipettes. They're cheap and they let you put a fraction of a drop of threadlock or CA exactly where you want it.

• Soldering tools - A good soldering iron and a third hand are indispensable. Learn how to solder.

• A good pair of wirecutters - Get some that cut really close, not something from Home Depot. Xcelite makes some good ones.

• A good pair of Ball Link pliers. If you can afford them the HMXR4860 are really good. The MAV803115 are half the price and they work well.

Batteries

• If a battery came with your kit, it's probably not a very good battery. Ouch. The truth hurts. I've tried them all and I've had the best luck with Flight Power and Thunder Power batteries. They give better performance and longer life, period. If you want to try getting by on the battery that comes with the kit, you can do it. For learning, they work okay as long as you take good care of them...maybe. I've seen cheap batteries puff up for no apparent reason. There's a lot to learn about batteries and charging. Take the time to learn as much as you can. You should be looking at Lithium Polymer batteries that have 3 cells (3S) and have a capacity of around 2200 mah. The current capacity isn't too important for learning, but the higher it is, the better the construction of the pack. Batteries go anywhere from 12C up to 30C, which means you could draw 26 amps from a 12C or 66 amps from a 30C. Big difference. Of course you don't draw that much most of the time, but 25 amps isn't uncommon in a quick climbout. Which battery do you think is going to work harder and last longer?

• Unless you want to go out and get only one flight in, you'll need more than one battery. It takes an hour to charge and you fly for 8-15 minutes, depending on your setup and how you fly.

Charger

• My advice - Bite the bullet and get a decent charger. The Bantam chargers are very good. The BC6 is my recommendation unless you plan to graduate to a larger model soon. If you plan to do that, go ahead and buy a BC8. Read about them and what they can do.  I use a BC8 for all of my charging. It will charge anything from a one cell NiCd up to and including an 8S Lipo pack. The BC line has built in balancers too. This keeps your Lipo batteries balanced and results in longer life. Thunder Power has a couple good chargers too. The THP610 us a dandy little charger. Study the charger section in the online store.

SA or SE?

• The SA is a fine little machine, but it needs just a little help. The tail rotor control system is unacceptable. If you buy one of these, make sure you get an HS1271 and use it. Cut the "guide" that is on the bottom of the horizontal fin mount off. Be careful not to cut too close to the strap that goes around the tail boom. You just want to get it out of the way.